Our Indooroopilly - Oxley and Cunningham explore in 1824

Readings from Primary Sources on Moreton Bay & Brisbane

These "Readings" from John Oxley's field books on the first settlement in Moreton Bay, September 1824, are reprinted from J.G. Steele, The Explorers of the Moreton Bay District 1770-1830, Brisbane, 1972.
Note that Footnotes are per J.G. Steele.
Note that the introductory paragraphs below show heavy quoting from and extensive reliance on J.G. Steele's The Explorers of the Moreton Bay District 1770-1830, Brisbane, 1972. There has also been some quoting from Hector Holthouse's Illustrated History of Queensland.

Governor Brisbane, in view of John Oxley's favourable report on the 1823 expedition, decided to establish a settlement in Moreton Bay. On 1 September 1824, 14 soldiers and about 30 convicts left Sydney in the brig "Amity". Oxley was placed in command of the ship and instructed to choose the location for settlement and chart the environment. Accompanying Oxley, were Allan Cunningham, the King's Botanist, and Robert Hoddle, the surveyor.
This extract covers the selection of Redcliffe as the location of the settlement and continuation of the exploration of the Brisbane River upstream from the highest point reached the previous year, i.e. Termination Hill (Goodna). They went as far as about 2 miles downstream of College's Crossing.

Make sure to look at Our Indooroopilly's Historical and Contemporary BRISBANE RIVER MAP

EXTRACT FROM OXLEY'S FIELD BOOKS

MONDAY SEPTEMBER 13th
This day was spent in examining the islands towards the head of the Bay,¹ none of which were found worthy of notice, being merely mangrove swamps, the outer parts overflowed at high water. The centre parts more elevated, barren and without water; the dry portions of none of the islands exceeded 50 or 60 acres. The plants upon these islands were almost entirely tropical, and not hitherto found without that parallel, neither were any of them known to exist in the more southern lat. of New South Wales.²

I had directed a party to explore the main opposite to the vessel during my absence, more particularly to examine the water I had found in my former voyage.³ The report was every way favourable, and confirmed the opinion I had previously formed. With the concurrence and approbation of Lieut. Miller, - commanding the intended establishment, I fixed upon a site ⁴ for the settlement close to Redcliff Point, possessing permanent good water close at hand, good soil in its immediate vicinity fit for most agricultural purposes, well adapted for grazing, with a sufficiency of useful timber for present purposes. Mr. Miller appeared highly pleased with the situation, and with the favourable prospects of successfully establishing himself and people which the appearance of the country held out to him.

TUESDAY SEPTEMBER 14TH
Fine, pleasant weather. Walked over the ground of the intended new settlement;⁵ fixed upon the most eligible places for the different public buildings, having reference to contiguity to water and the convenience of landing stores and provisions. The land most eligible for cultivation is on the north side of the creek, and to the north of the settlement. The natives visited the place when the stores were landing in considerable numbers, but gave no annoyance.

WEDNESDAY SEPTEMBER 15TH
Fine, pleasant weather. Employed in sketching the coast ⁶ in the vicinity of the settlement, and in preparing the boats for a continuation of the survey of the River Brisbane.

THURSDAY SEPTEMBER 16TH
Fine, pleasant weather. Left the brig, accompanied by Lieut. Butler and Mr. Cunningham, with two boats, to complete the survey of the river. At four arrived at the head of Sea Reach, when we stopped for the night.⁷ We had scarce pitched the tent when we were visited by a party of the natives, the seniors of which were very troublesome, endeavouring to steal everything they could lay their fingers on; at dark we were relieved from their company.

FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 17TH
The same party of natives visited us again this morning as we were embarking. I had put my hat, barometer, and surveying instruments on a rock close to the boat, and surrounded by the people who were getting the baggage into the boat, when two of the natives were discovered making off with the above articles. They were pursued, but, as they gained on us, Mr. Butler fired at the man who had the instruments, which caused him to drop them, being, I suspect, struck by some of the shot. The other fellow got clear off with my hat.

We pursued our course up the river, which we did not find fresh so low down as in the former voyage. The botany of the brushes, etc., was entirely tropical. I found nothing to alter in my former report. We suffered considerably from thirst, not finding any fresh water. We stopped for the night at Green Hills,⁸ where the water, though drinkable, was still brackish. Measured the breadth of the river and found it 350 yards.

SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 18TH
We had the ebb tide against us the whole of the early part of the day. The botany of the brushes was examined, and many curious plants found, but all tropical. A species of Flindersia was found (a large tree), but it was not ascertained if it was different from the one already described by Brown. At two o'clock we halted at Termination Plains,⁹ being the limit of the former voyage. In the course of our progress we shot some black swans and a duck; saw no natives. In the evening we had a slight thunderstorm, with a light, refreshing rain.

SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 19TH
A fine, pleasant morning. At 10 I recommenced the survey of the river from the point where the former one ended. First station: A, on larboard side, back to tree formerly taken ¹⁰N. 60° E. 30 chains. N. 271° 60, to tree on Ld. bank. The land on which we encamped last night nearly an island; the soil light and good, apple tree (Angophora) and blue gum. Station B. to C. - N. 323&189;° 90 chains, in line with a hi11 ¹¹ on std. shore, distant from it, perhaps, four or five miles; both shores fiat, forest land, apple tree. The former station laid down 10 chains too long. This last reach the river widened to about 15 chains, and was shoal the whole length up, having no more than from eight to 10 feet, in some places only six. At D. ¹² on larboard shore, N. 315° ¹³ one mile, to E on starboard shore ¹⁴ cutting the point on this side, both sides low. This reach the soundings varied from eight feet to seven fathoms towards the starboard shore and latter part of it. The starboard shore towards the end of the sta. is lofty and rocky, the ridges covered with ironbark trees; the opposite side low and brushy immediately on the shore. A little back the land rises into an open apple tree flat. From E. to F., N 221&189° 40.

The soundings along this bend of the river varied from four fathoms to 10 feet. The river at end widened considerably, and the country on the larboard shore to the next station fine open forest. Towards the end, the bank rises a little, but is very open. From F to G., N 189° 120 chains. To this station the soundings from eight feet to seven fathoms; but I consider there is on the larboard shore a good channel of eight feet at low water. At the end the river narrowed a little, and the soundings increased to seven fathoms. From station G to H., N 277&189; 30 chains; a creek to the left.¹⁵ This bend narrows the river to about eight chains. A deep channel, four and five fathoms, at end.¹⁶ The bank on left commences low, the opposite side ascending to a forest bank of gentle elevation. H to J., 60 chains, N. 350, 60, a ridge of hills of moderate elevation laying about S.S.W. and N.N.E. in line with this station, their base about two miles and three-quarters back from the end of it. The first rapid was crossed near the commencement of this station, having four feet over it; it was about 150 yards long. The breadth of the river about 280 yards.

At the end of this station another four foot rapid and a considerable creek or stream ¹⁷ on the L. opposite. The country around very fine; the range of hills before mentioned crossed the present course of the river at a right angle. Forest flats on both sides, no appearance of floods, and the tide appears to rise about 18 inches. From J to K, N. 338° 60, passing between a low, sandy Isle and the starboard shores, the other side shoal. The land on the left, a fine open forest flat, also on the right. Tide rises about two feet; average depth in the channel, which is close to the starboard side, about five feet; the river about 20 chains wide. K to L, N. 332° 100 chains; average depth, seven feet; width of river, about 12 to 15 chains. The larboard shore a steep forest bank, surmounted by ironbark trees, apparently not good, but grassy, resting on a base of sandstone; opposite side a fine flat of land, very lightly timbered. L to M, north 90 chains; the opposite shore from the end of this station rises along the course of the river into higher forest land than before, and at the end of the next station is a small, steep clear hill, perhaps about 150 feet high; the opposite point on the left to this hill, the shore brushy, but almost directly becomes a flat of forest land; the soil of these flats light, but good. Average Sdgs. six to eight feet. M to N, N. 14° 35 chains.

From station N to 0, N. 341° 45 chains, small islts. at N. Obtained specimens of the rocky base of the hill, a small brush turning the side of hill to the R. The country rises on that side into bold forest hills of considerable elevation.¹⁸ The river appears still to have a rise of about two feet of tide. At the end of this station we passed the shoalest rapid we had yet met, having only three feet pebbly bottom. A chain or two beyond the station, rocks in the river; no appearance of floods. 0 to P, N. 321 0 60 chains. On the right to the end of this sta.¹⁹ a very lofty rocky bank, at end a brush having much pine growing in it, the brush extending up the sides, and on the summit of the hill. P to Q. N. 271° 50. Starboard shore lofty, with a thick brush on the sides, much pine; opposite shore, low forest; same rise of tide as before. Q. to R, N. 237&189;° 35 chains. Left bank low, the right lofty, hilly bank very steep; river about five chains wide two and a-half fathoms. R to S, N. 177&189;° 20. Left bank low, with pebbles indicating at some very distant period that it had been overflowed. Starboard shore continues hilly, but declining. S to T,²⁰ N. 100° 60. The starboard bank an elevated flat of rich land, declining to a point which had evidently, by its sandy shore and pebbly surface, been at some period washed by an inundation; a flood. would be too weak an expression to use for a collection of water rising to the height (full 50 feet), which the appearance of the shore here renders probable; the width of the river must then be about half-a-mile. The left bank ²¹ rose into an elevated ridge of grassy land, stony, and closely studded with trees, chiefly gum and ironbark.

We halted on the pebble bank for the night about half-past four, and while our dinner was preparing, Mr. C., Mr. B. and myself ascended the high grassy ridge on the opposite side,²² and from it we had a very extended view to the S.W., in which quarter two remarkable points, bearing respectively, N. 205°²³ and N. 210&189;°²⁴ of a lofty and (wooded peak, afterwards called Belle Vue Mt., N. 280°)²⁵ magnificent range of mountains were seen; this range was distant between 60 and 70 miles, and the country, though probably broken into lower ranges, did not present any remarkable feature above the general surface, it appeared a wooded level. It seemed probable that the river or some branch of ,it flowed from between the points whose bearings were taken.²⁶ The result of the day's observations effectually destroyed the perhaps too ardent and flattering hopes I had indulged that this large river would prove the outlet for the waters of the great Western interior; in proportion to the strength of my expectations was my feeling of disappointment, and I again experienced the fallacy of trusting to appearances which, in countries where the rules governing the operations of Nature are more certainly reduced to known laws, would fully have warranted the opinion I had formed, connected as that opinion was and is with the conviction I cannot but still continue impressed with, that the waters of the Western interior cannot be entirely dissipated by evaporation.

1.	According to Cunningham, Oxley first went ashore at Redcliffe, but failed to find water there.
2.	Cunningham, who accompanied Oxley to these islands, made this observation.
3.	Oxley had landed at Redcliffe on 5 December 1823 (Oxley, Report, 29 November-. 6 December 1823).
4.	Near the centre of the present Redcliffe.
5.	Cunningham's letter to the Reverend J.D. Lang, 20 October 1824: "Landed, and having found water in holes, proceeded to stake off the Town, the position of the Government House, the site of the stores.. . recommended the spot for a garden, and finally showed the soldiers the way not to lose themselves in going from the beach to the freshwater holes being 400 yards distance, which they assuredly would have done, if we believe their own ideas of bushranging - we charitably marked the trees on both sides for them!!".
6.	Maps of Redcliffe and parts of the Bay were completed by Robert Hoddle, mentioned in this field book on 28 September 1824 (Oxley, Field Books, Note 80). The maps are in the Brisbane Survey Office, MT 58-60.
7.	Just downstream from Breakfast Creek. It had been recommended as a site for a settlement by Oxley in his report on the 1823 expedition.
8.	Mt. Ommaney.
9.	Prior's Pocket, opposite Goodna.
10.	Station 24 of the 1823 survey.
11.	In the D'Aguilar Range, 1200 feet.
12.	Station D was opposite Station C.
13.	This probably should be 305°.
14.	Moggill.
15.	Six Mile Creek.
16.	At the present Moggill Ferry.
17.	The Bremer River; see 25 September 1824 (Oxley, Field Books). Probably named after Captain (later Rear Admiral Sir) James John Gordon Bremer (1786-1850).
18.	The D'Aguilar Range.
19.	At the mouth of Kholo Creek.
20.	Station T is on the larboard shore, about half a mile north of Fairy Bower.
21.	Larboard is meant; the eastern bank.
22.	Larboard.
23.	Spicer's Peak, 4009 feet.
24.	Mt. Cordeaux, 3725 feet.
25.	The words in brackets were inserted later, probably during the downstream journey; Belle Vue Mt. is now Mt. Crosby, 600 feet.
26.	Cunningham's Gap was therefore distinctly seen; this is the first recorded sighting of the gap, and Cunningham on this occasion seems to have taken less interest in it than Oxley did. Tributaries of the Brisbane do indeed originate close to Cunningham's Gap, but do not flow through the gap.